Do the cam walk ......

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PeterHS
Posts: 257
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 10:50 am
Real Name: Peter Hedley-Smith
Location: Cape Town

Do the cam walk ......

Post by PeterHS » Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:24 am

No, not a stupid dance but irritating none the less.

Do you have problems with cams walking into cracks? Obviously, correct placement is essential but ....

What tips and tricks? Are any makes or sizes more prone to others? What about rock type? What makes a difference and how best to avoid?

How best to remove to?

All replies gratefully received. Thanks.

Peter

Gadget
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Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 12:56 pm
Location: SA

Re: Do the cam walk ......

Post by Gadget » Sat Jun 18, 2016 11:32 am

Longer slings help to avoid transferring the rope movement to the cam - the less movement the less walking.

RyanKarate
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 8:06 am
Real Name: Ryan Peel

Re: Do the cam walk ......

Post by RyanKarate » Sun Jun 19, 2016 7:02 pm


Old Smelly
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Re: Do the cam walk ......

Post by Old Smelly » Mon Jun 20, 2016 8:32 am

Yes - some types walk more than others...

It is up to you to make sure that your cam is least likely to walk. Ironically the perfect width crack is your worst enemy for this. Even if you have placed properly and pointed the cam down at a diagonal angle the cam may still walk. Of course extending with a runner is very important as the rope can then move around hopefully without wiggling the cam, but sometimes one doesn't want to extend or your route still results in the wiggling of the cam. If it gets wiggled it will walk, so look at how you can place it against a bulge or feature that will stop that happening. So - as always- try and find a spot where the lobes are all evenly extended and maybe the top of one or two of them are touching against something that prevent it wriggling in further. Often turning the cam around through 180 degrees will help. I always remember that placing a cam properly is directly proportional to your confidence when above it, which is why just grabbing a cam and shoving it in is a desperate move for desperate times.

Basically don't be lazy and look at how you place and do your best to make sure you can retrieve the cam!
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Do the cam walk ......

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Mon Jun 20, 2016 8:57 am

If you place the cam with the wider lobes at the bottom (only valid for horizontal cracks obviously) then they tend to walk less
Happy climbing
Nic

mokganjetsi
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Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

Re: Do the cam walk ......

Post by mokganjetsi » Mon Jun 20, 2016 9:25 am

i find that people tend to place cams under-cammed rather than over-cammed - over-cammed is literally only the last 2 or 3 percent of the lobe; whilst under-cammed is the bottom 50%. see metolius's placement guide below - the green zone is only the top half of the lobe; the yellow is acceptable but not ideal and red is taking a gamble ..... and under-cammed cams tend to walk more since the spring is more relaxed (i think?).
cam-range-lrg.jpg
cam-range-lrg.jpg (236.96 KiB) Viewed 1581 times

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Do the cam walk ......

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:13 am

PeterHS wrote:How best to remove too?
Over cammed cams can generally be removed with patience and a patient belayer who will hold you in one position for some time.

Use two nut picks and hook them behind the cam lobes, against the rock, one above, one below. Pull the nut picks towards you. They will either slip between the lobe and the rock or catch the lobe. If the former, apply a little tension to the cam sling and repeat. If the latter, tug alternately on the picks, making sure to switch sides every now and then. The cam should, very gradually, move towards you.
Happy climbing
Nic

Chris F
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Re: Do the cam walk ......

Post by Chris F » Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:57 am

If it's a wide crack and there's enough room, I've manged to turn a cam right around and walk it back out again. High risk strategy though.

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