Post
by Old Smelly » Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:33 am
The thing about saying "OFF BELAY" at the top of a sport route - don't do it!
WHY? The real reason is that people learn to say stupid stuff they don't mean - like saying "how are you?" and not listening to the response...
What do I mean? Don't say something you do not mean - Trad climbers know to never say "OFF BELAY" unless they want the belayer to take their hands off the rope, unlock the biner and pull the rope out the belay device - for abseiling, taking up the rope or something like that.
If you are cleaning in the conventional sense then it is better (my opinion) to clip the rope in the top draws, move up, attach your slings and then shout "SAFE". At this point you can request slack for whatever cleaning method you use - be it shortcuts, the method detailed by PETZL for lowering off on a locking carabiner or the conventional pulling of rope through the top draws, overhand knot or figure eight, locking carabiner onto belay loop, untie, feed through chains and tie back in method.
The real point is that the belayer does not go to sleep, chat to the good looking person nearby or let go of the ropes, but rather stands with the rope locked off and paying attention to the climber.
This process is much safer than most sport climbers care to do it, but I won't climb with anyone who will not pay attention the whole time, so this is my gold standard. Even if you use the shortcuts, do not compromise on belayer attention!
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...