archives
Third free ascent of Hallucinogen Wall
Big news out of the Black: Brad Gobright and Madaleine Sorkin have claimed the third free ascent of the iconic Hallucinogenic Wall.
More than just Biceps! – Destination Guide: Los Mallos de Riglos
Riglos, famous for the utterly outrageous Fiesta de Los Biceps, a swathe of heavily chalked, perma-dry conglomerate "potatoes" (visible from over a mile away) which breaches the steepness of the Visera tower, has a lot more to offer than the average passing climber gives it credit.
A Blind Ascent: Summiting Everest Without Sight
ERIK WEIHENMAYER made headlines when he reached the top of the world's tallest mountain in 2002, and we recently included that expedition on our list of the greatest moments on Everest.
French Report on Bear Tooth and Mooses Tooth
The French Federation of Alpine Clubs (FFCAM) initiated this expedition as part of a dedicated training program to help climbers in their twenties reach a high level of excellence in mountaineering.
Interview: Patricio Tisalema about speed-climbing Everest
Chad Kellogg has his 'Everest Climbing Algorithm', Ueli Steck has been warming up around the Khumbu valley and Ecuadorian Patricio Tisalema will try to climb Everest in one day (alpine style) from the north side.
Everest Too Dangerous!
In one of the driest seasons on record, the Lhotse and Nuptse faces of Everest are unleashing a torrent of rockfall, between two and 10 rocks per minute.
Kalymnos Primer
Ahh... back from vacation. Good thing about vacations--no matter how lovely--is that they eventually end, and you return home to your own comfortable bed, your faithful dog, your routine. Now that I've been home for a day or two, I had some time to reflect on the trip.
White Water Kayaking – Consumed
Whitewater kayaker Hendrik Coetzee had decided to call it a career after a decade of first descents on the wildest rivers in Africa. The river’s most feared predator had a different ending in store.
Ueli Steck Interview: “If I don’t take myself out of this game – I will die”
The powerful Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck is acclimatizing for an ascent of Everest's Southeast Ridge without supplemental oxygen, according to a World Radio Switzerland podcast. In a basecamp interview three days ago, Steck says that "If I don't take myself out of the game, I will die sooner rather than later."
Ten Top Tips For Staying Alive
In this article UKC Chief Editor Jack Geldard takes a lighthearted look at a deadly serious topic - staying alive whilst climbing - and gives us ten things to think about whilst we're out at the crag.
Ocearch and the Kogel Baai attack – Searching for answers, finding few
Another attack confirmed. This time fatal and at a beach I know and love so well. A great guy, a promising talent, a life cut short.
A Monsterous Send
I finished bolting the original idea for the Beast in Boven. It's gonna be hard. I'm very close to the send. It'll also go on gear. Should be 32/33 (8b/+). It's an amazing climb.
Nepals Over Regulated permit system
Ueli Steck and Freddie Wilkinson reveal how Nepal's permitting system is holding climbers back in the Khumbu
The Rules For Dating A Dirtbag
“Well, Mom, I had this weird feeling about meeting women and telling them I live in a van full of climbing gear, but then I realized I really only am interested in women who could be interested in a guy who lives in a van full of climbing gear.
Teenager nicknamed ‘Japanese Spider-Man’ – the best free-climber in the world
Toru Nakajima, 17, is midway through his fearless quest to tackle the world's most difficult climbs.
Wide Eyes, High Times and Hard Times; a Story of Climbing with Mark Grundon : Part 1
This story was written in 2005, and a much shorter version was published in the Mountain Gazette. It was heavily revised in 2012 for Mehall's upcoming book, Climbing Out of Bed.







