Two men who have spent their lives in the void, high up in some of the most extreme environments in the world. Realms that are wild, untouched frontiers of human experience.  Mountaineering legends Andrew de Klerk and Edmund February are revolutionaries in the climbing world,  pioneering and defining the sport in Africa. Standing before forbidding slabs of rock, sheer cliff faces rising hundreds of meters into the air, Ed and Andy through their fearless and unrelenting exploration, have opened well over 500 new routes all over Africa. Their lives have been perched in some of the remote and isolated mountains where the realities of the modern world are alien and testing the edges of existence is the norm.

Named after the first conqueror of Everest, Edmund Hilary, and living in the shadow of Table Mountain, it seemed Ed was destined to be a climber. He had to overcome immense challenges to become who he is today, during Apartheid he wasn’t welcome in the Mountain Club of South Africa and had to outwit authorities to climb on restricted land. When he met Andy they formed not only a legendary partnership but also an unlikely enduring friendship. Andy, a legend in his own right has experienced his own emotional hardships and has solo climbed the north faces of the Alps, surviving five days without food, pioneering routes in Alaska, Pakistan, Patagonia, Scotland and the USA.

Both men have experienced the shaper edges of society, they escaped the harsh realities of their past by launching themselves beyond the peak of human endurance. In the furthermost remote summits they have been surrounded by untouched nature, environments that have calmed the soul and pushed them out of their societal confines to greatness. “Sharper edges” is an insight into the hearts of two men who have gone where few do, exploring what has sculpted them and their achievements both on rock and as friends.

Sharper Edges will be broadcast on Saturday, 5 June, at 18:30 on SABC3

Contact Maria Strydom if you would like to purchase a dvd copy of the documentary.

Sharper Edges, A documentary on Andy de Klerk and Ed February, legends of the climbing scene in South Africa, these two men have pioneered climbing in Africa. We follow their lives and how nature has had a significant impact on who they are. Directed by Matthew von Abo for the Healing Power of Nature series by African Renaissance Productions in conjunction with Mafisa.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Clinton climbing at one of the recent NBL Comps Photo Margherita Introna

Its been a while since we’ve heard anything about you, tell us what you’ve been doing for the past year?

I spent the whole of last year working on the stadium in Durban.
I got to visit the Wave Cave in June.  I’ve done hardly any climbing.  Five months prior to that as I was working 6 days a week and then would go climbing for just one day.

You went to Spain at the end of last year, for how long where you there, who did you go over with and what did you get up to?
Well, I finished up in Durban and left for Spain on the 1st of December (2009), I got back to SA on the 1st of February (2010).
Simon Lowe and I went over together and then Mathieu Schneuwly and Andrew Scott (both Durban guys) joined us.

What did you think of the climbing in Spain?
It was pretty awesome.  It took a while to get into, as all my climbing before then had been at the Wave Cave.
Getting used to the small crimps took a bit of time.

What is the best time of year to climb in Spain?
It all depends where you go, if you went to Rodellar its more suited to the summer time. We went to Siurana for the first two weeks, then Simon and I drove from Barcelona down to Malaga and along the coast of Costa Blanca stopping off at various crags along the way.  I had really want wanted to go to El Chorro (which is a Winter climbing area); unfortunately Europe was having a bad winter with lots of rain and snow, so it didn’t happen.

You had your mind set on the route ‘Anabolica’ in Spain, why did you want to climb this route so much?
It’s the iconic 8a of Siruanna , I was always under the impressions that JuzH had flashed many years back, although since speaking to him I found out that he had just redpointed it.
I had also previously been on the route back in 1998.

You onisghted an 8a over there called El Padre Orillos, tell me about it?
It is 15 or 16 bolts long, slightly overhanging by about 20 degrees, the middle gets tricky with some grips that you need to pinch onto and the top half was the redpoint crux for me because I was so pumped!

Do you think that climbing in Spain made you a better climber?
I think Simon made me a better climber!
His mission on the trip was to onsight as much as possible which got me physced and motivated, but generally the whole experience was good and I flashed / onsighted more routes than ever before.

What was the highlight of the trip?
For me, onsighting 8a and the very last day when I did the Extension to Shark Attack (8b).
I had been working it for 3 days, Simon was working a route nearby… the atmosphere was really awesome which made for such a good finish to the trip!

Are you climbing stronger?
I haven’t really been climbing for a while, besides one schlocky day at Montagu.  From a mental perspective I would say yes.

Clinton tightening a bolt on the Stadium - Photo by Mark Johnston / Skysite

Do you think the break did you good?
It’s been especially good for my body, I’ve really needed a break since I getting back from my States trip last year, both mentally and physically.

In September last year you sent pretty much all the hard routes at the Wave Cave including Eros 8b+, is this the hardest route you’ve done?
Definitely the hardest route, Thanatos (the extension to Barricade) is harder and I had worked hard and managed to get past the crux move. But then the group I was climbing with got mugged and I don’t think I will ever go back to do it.

Do you find Limestone easier to climb on and is the rock easier to read?
I think to a large extent yes, when you climbing on pockets I find you can work out the sequence better. Also routes that have a lot of traffic on them, you can see black smear marks for your feet which gives the moves away.

With all this banter about Yellowwood ethics in the community, do you think a bolt(s) should be added if there is danger of someone hurting themselves?
Yes, a single bolt should be placed if needed, but no more sport routes should be bolted up there.

What are you plans for the following year?
6 months working in Mumbai, India and then go exploring. I want to check out the Himalayas too. Just walking, no climbing. I also want to visit Hampi, possibly Thailand.
Hector Pringle is going in that part of the world later in the year so I might join him on a trip.

What will you be doing in India?
I’m going to working/installing a roof on stadium that they are building for Commonwealth games, very similar to the work I did in Durban.

Who are you climbing sponsors?
Evolv, Blue Water and First Ascent

How long have you been climbing?
18 years

Click here to see more pictures of Clinton in the Gallery

Clinton doing his best gorilla impersonation

Clinton taking the 216 meter leap at the Bloukrans bridge

Click here to view the embedded video.

From Durban
Age: 25
I’m living in Durban right now, but will be moving to Cape Town early next year

When did you start climbing and how?

I started 6 years ago with the UCT Mountain and Ski club. My first climb was in Montagu

What’s the best crag in SA?

The Wave Cave in Durban and Oudtshoorn in the Western Cape

Other favorite crags:

Waterval Boven

The Top 5 on your iPod?

I don’t own an iPod

Simon Lowe redpointing Twisted Steel (29) at The Scoop Photo: Justin Lawson

Right: Simon Lowe redpointing Twisted Steel (29) at The Scoop
Photo: Justin Lawson

How often do you go climbing?/Do you train?

Twice on the weekends and I try get out / train during the week too

What climber inspired you the most when you were starting out and why?

Chris Sharma (I think he inspires everyone) Clinton Martinengo and Marijus Šmigelskis – I’ve never seen Justin Hawkins climb!!

If you could go climbing anywhere, where would you go? Why?

Spain… because of the amount of limestone

Do you climb better on limestone?

Yes, long endurance routes are my strongpoint

Have you climbed in any other exotic locations?

Never climbed outside of SA, but I’m leaving for Spain next Sunday with Andrew Scott, Clinton Martinengo and Mathieu Schneuwly for 2 months!

What’s the best route (you’ve opened quite a few, so top 3) that you’ve ever climbed/bolted?

I opened ‘The fugitive’ (32) at The Wave Cave (the route was bolted by someone else) and a route that I bolted and opened called Spinal Fusion at The Truck Yard (30) not a very appropriate name for the route, but anyway

Above: Simon Lowe flashing Breakthrough (25), Cleopatra @ Lady Slipper Photo by Ed McLenaghan

What projects do you have right now?

Eros at the Wave Cave (33) and Streetfighter (34) at Oudtshoorn

What’s the hardest grade you’ve climbed and what has been the most challenging route and why?

Hardest would be Eros (33) and Jabberwocky (originally a soft 33) which Andrew Pedley downgraded it to 32
Most challenging route for me was ‘Cave Rave’ (31) which is the extension to Paragon (30) and ‘Stone Haven’ (30) at Umgeni Valley

Right: Simon Lowe making easy work of Vamparama 29/30 and carrying a set of nuts to back up dodgy bolts. Photo taken at the Canyon in Kloof Gorge, Natal Photo by Micky Wiswedel

Describe the perfect route.

A good 45 degree overhang, long and sustained, preferably limestone with a splash of both crimpers and slopers

What is the biggest epic you’ve had while climbing?

Definitely a Private Universe – because I’m not a trad climber and I’m not assipring to be one (I will trad every couple of years but want to avoid epics)

Are you planning on opening new routes?

Yes, got two bolted projects at the Truck Yard and yes, there are trucks there.

Who found the area?

Warren Gans found the area, there are about 12 routes opened so far and 3 projects

What are you doing with your days right now?

Rope Access work with a combination of on and off shore, mostly industrial stuff (Riggs and ships) althouth recently I’ve been working on the Stadium in Durban

What about life other than climbing?

Little bit of Mountain biking…. “What else do we do???”
Just climb!

Do you boulder?

Not much, but that’s cause there is very little bouldering in Durban

Above: Simon Lowe opening the classic ‘Moon Rider' 7a, Stutterheim, Eastern Cape Photo Andrew Scott

Above: Simon Lowe opening the classic ‘Moon Rider’ 7a, Stutterheim, Eastern Cape
Photo Andrew Scott

Benj and Adam chilling out at Jurassic Park, Montagu Pic: Justin Lawson

Adam Ondra in South Africa

Stats:
DOB: 05 February 1993
Living in Brno
Occupation: Student
Started climbing: At 6 years old

Welcome to Montagu, South Africa, have you been having a good time so far and how was the Petzl Rock and Road Trip?

Yeah, we visited a few of very interesting areas, totally different to Europe.

Far away from the city and out in the bush?

Yeah! But also the style of climbing was pretty much different.

Did it suit you? From what I hear you’ve been sending lots of routes, as well as few projects.

Maybe some of routes suited me, because they are crimpy and slightly overhanging, but… I wasn’t used to climbing on Quartizite at all. It was so strange for the first time.

Right: Benj and Adam chilling out at Jurassic Park, Montagu
Pic: Justin Lawson

What is your favourite type of rock to climb on?

Limestone, because we have so much of it in Europe and its what I am used to.

Your top four favourite climbing areas in Europe?

Oliana, Spain
Voralpsee, Switzerland
Schleier Wasserfall, Austria
Frankenjura, Germany

Do you boulder much?

I do a lot of bouldering in winter at home.

On a boulder wall?

No, limestone mostly and also in Czech republic there a couple of granite bouldering areas. I was once in Ticino in Cresciano and every year I go to the Val Daone for the World Cup.

Do you Trad climb, have you ever trad climbed?

I have never Trad climbed!

Adam flashing an 8b on the Rock and Road Pic: Martin Renz

How old where you when you started and how did you start climbing?

My parents are both climbers and since I was very little my parents would take me climbing with them. I was naturally curious to try too.
When I was three I started and swinging on the rope. Then when I was six I started climbing more frequently.

Do you have any brothers or sisters?

Yes, I have an older sister. She started climbing after I started, she tried a couple of times but she didn’t like it and just after I started she became interested in climbing again.

Do you use a bouldering wall for training?

Yes, I train in winter and before the world cups. There are three climbing gyms to choose from each within ten minutes of where I live. My school is also 10 minutes away!

Who in the climbing world inspires you?

Wolfgang Güllich the most, because he was pushing the limit for than 12 years. I think he was the first to climb 8b, 8c, 9a.

What are the best routes that you’ve climbed?

Speed in Voralpsee 8c+ opened by Beat Kammerlander. 30 meters, slightly overhanging by 3 meters and smooth like the wall of a house with very small holds.

Have you opened many routes?

In my home area about 20 or so. Up to 9a

Do you have any projects that you are working on?

Yes, but right now they are too hard. I have two projects that I think will be about 9b or something. The projects are about 8c+ climbing and then a brutal boulder problem

The hardest climb that you have done?

Open Air, 9a+ at Schleier Wasserfall

What is the biggest epic that you have had?

The day I climbed WoGü, its a multi pitch route with some pitchs up to 8c. The first pitch is already 8c and I fell there on my first two attempts. So my skin was totally sore on the first pitch, fortunately I got it on my third go

Adam on the bottom half of Mazawattee (8c+/35) Adam got the route on his first redpoint attempt Photo by Riki Lawson

Other than climbing?

I dont do many things… I used to go into the mountains for snowboarding a lot, but now we discovered that even in winter its better to go climbing, because in February you have the best conditions and you if you go skiing you loose the shape and the best conditions for climbing.

And School, do you take time off?

I mostly climb on weekends, sometimes extended weekends and I go twice a year for a two week trip

So they give you an allowance to take time off school?

They actually give me a big allowance, I can miss 50% of school

And how much do you actually miss?

I think about 15%

What is your favourite food?
Pasta or pizza

Will you be coming back to South Africa?

Maybe to Rocklands

What has been your favourite route while in SA?

Mazawattee, was the favourite for sure

You sent Mazawattee 8c+ on your first redpoint attempt, did you ever feel like you might fall off?

In the one move, from the two sidepulls to the next sidepull

Adam is sponsored by:
Montura
La Sportiva
Rock Empire
Beal
Hudy Sport

Check out routes that Adam has done on 8a.nu

Read more about the Petzl Rock and Road Trip in South Africa

Video and report of Adam sending Mazawattee 8c+/35

Adam sending Mazawattee (8c+/35) Photo by Riki Lawson

Where are you from? How old are you? Where do you live?
I was born and grew up in Durban. I’m 43 now and live on a 30-acre small-holding near the village of Hilton – just outside Pietermaritzburg.

When did you start climbing and how?
I started climbing with the Wits University Mountain Club in 1984. It was an active club and had the first (and only) climbing wall in SA. This wall was the site of my introduction to climbing. A few weeks later the club took me into the Magaliesberg kloofs where I got to climb on real rock on real (trad) routes. By this stage I already had my own Willan’s (Whillan’s) harness and a pair of EB’s (shoes) – so my footwork sucked and my sperm count was non-existent during these “early years”. I was studying at the Medical School at the time and bought only second-hand (and possibly out of date…) textbooks, using the saving to pay for my climbing gear. Wits taught me to lead climb on trad using a wonderful apprenticeship programme. You climbed with experienced leaders who showed you how to place safe gear and never to fall. The process took about six months. Once you qualified as a leader the club gave you a set of 9 mm ropes to use. A few months after issuing mine they seriously considered taking them back as from the outset I was keen on pushing my limits and kept falling off of course. That just wasn’t on.

What’s the best crag in SA?
For sheer volume, length and quality and a great social setting nothing comes close to beating Waterval Boven as my favourite venue.

Other favourite crags:
With Boven out of the way I am then left looking for anything distinctive – Table Mountain for the location, Milner Amphitheatre for size and majesty, the Wave Cave for the best super steep climbing I have seen anywhere in the world. The Canyon at Kloof Gorge for that “Lost World” experience on brilliant rock. Howick Falls for the Via Ferrata cable and waterfall. At the moment I love Umgeni Valley for the thrill of countless unclimbed lines in a stunning venue.

Nothing Heals Like Cold Steel (27) (First Ascent)

The Top 5 on your iPod:
Seether, Nickleback, Daughtry, Fleetwood Mac and U2. (Plus a bunch of cheesy 80s hits – ask any poor bastard who has driven to Boven with me.)

How often do you go climbing?/Do you train?
I climb every Thursday afternoon and have structured my life around this slot. I also get out 2 to 3 Sundays a month. My holidays almost always have an element of climbing attached. My two boys Cameron (10) and Max (6) are just getting really interested in climbing and love Boven with its high quality beginners’ lines, mountain biking and swimming pool. On the whole I don’t train but rather climb. The perfect programme would be climb Thursday and Sunday with power or endurance training (depending on what I feel is lacking) on Monday. This gives me two rest days before each climbing day. My schedule usually gets in the way of this ideal. During heavy periods at work (weekend calls) or if rain washes out climbing I will go to the wall more often.

Tell us some more about THWACK
Thursday’s Wickedly Athletic Climbers’ Klub is a bunch of like-minded climbers who have agreed to carve some regular time out of their busy schedules to have fun while climbing to the best of their ability. We spend the afternoon at the crag and climb as hard as we can – focusing on having a blast while achieving our goals. Regardless of what goes down we all walk out with a silly grin on our faces simply because we have successfully made it out of the office. Then a cold glass of draught, clasped by tender finger tips, rounds off the afternoon. It clears my head and creates a space for good social interaction – kind of like a book club for climbers.

What climber inspired you the most when you were starting out and why?
Climbers have inspired me for different reasons at different times in my climbing career. In the beginning my heroes were Andy de Klerk, Steve Bradshaw and Kevin Smith. They were at the top of the game at the time and like any kid I wanted to be like them when I grew up. These days I am inspired by anyone with passion and motivation who is prepared to push their boundaries.

If you could go climbing anywhere, where would you go? Why?
I have great memories of living on the road while climbing in the USA. I have been lucky enough to have had two long road trips (10 months each!) and two short (one month each) trips in America. When living that nomadic existence you get to visit many great places – all in the company of like-minded nomads. All the travelling climbers move around together as the seasons dictate when it is the best time to visit each area. It is a beautiful country with huge open spaces and spectacular climbing. There are many places I have yet to visit – especially the Red River Gorge.

Roger and Andrea on 'Rhino on the City Hall Steps' - Mount Everest

Have you climbed in any other exotic locations?
Andrea and I have been lucky enough to have climbed in the US, UK, Spain, France and Thailand. I would like to get to Italy one day. I am going back to the US with my family in July to visit my Dad in San Francisco and spend some time in Boulder, Colorado, then Lander, Wyoming.

What’s the best route (you’ve opened a lot, so top 3) you’ve ever climbed/bolted that’s grade 18 or easier?
Easy question as there are only two routes at these grades and they are both great – The Gospel Express (18) at Montagu and Glamorous Fool (18) at Umgeni Valley.

Lazy Summer days at the lake in the Midlands

What projects do you have right now?
I am trying to repeat Evan Wiercx’s 90’s test piece Gravity’s Rainbow. It has only had 4 ascents in 18 years and is brick hard. I did the second ascent in ’91 and graded it 29 – Evan had no idea what grade it was at the time. In retrospect I think my ego got in the way as I did not want to admit he had just opened the first 8a in KZN.  It’s definitely 30. Even the legendary Paul Brouard found it desperate – well done Evan.
I am close on a new Umgeni project called The Godfather which is 31/2. I have also spent some time on another Umgeni project – The Blue Horizon – which still feels very much beyond me and will be 33. If I manage to get it, it will be the hardest thing I have ever climbed. Once done with The Godfather I plan to give it another serious go but I suspect I may have to pass that one on.

Roger on the cover of Southern Rock Magazine redpointing Stormwatch. Photo by Steve Bradshaw

What’s the hardest grade you’ve climbed and what has been the most challenging route and why?
I have never managed a 33 and this is a long-term goal for me. Stormwatch (31) at Fernkloof was the toughest route I have ever done. Everyone knows the story, 23 days etc., etc. Jumping the cutting edge three grades took a lot of believing. There were only a few 28s at the time and even today Stormwatch has a reputation of being very solid at the grade. Barricade (32) at the Wave Cave was a huge exercise in endurance. No matter how wired I had it I was always pumped from only a third of the way up. Vicious Fish (32) at Smith Rocks in the US was a real technical challenge. The Godfather (the Umgeni project) has some of the hardest moves I have done (or am yet to do…) on rock.

Describe the perfect route.
I am weak … I suck as a boulderer. I have only ever sent one, yes one, 7a problem! The perfect route has no stopper sequences or brick hard moves but rather is 30m long – sustained, continuous, uber-exposed with little prospect for rest.

What happened to Southern Rock magazine (it was a really cool climbing mag)?
We ran out of money … Mike Cartwright was in debt to the tune of R60k when we stopped. (That’s about R180 000 in today’s terms!) The reason he left South Africa was to earn $s to specifically cancel that debt. He killed the debt in two years and “retired” 5 years later – a dot com success story.

What is the biggest epic you’ve had while climbing?
That was a rescue in the Drakensberg in 1994. I was surrounded by bad weather and incompetence. We crashed the chopper at the top of the berg and still had to continue with the rescue. The entire rescue crew who was choppered in was unable to climb/deal with the technical challenge of the situation. Myself and two other climbers (who were on the wall already) rescued a climber with a broken femur and ribs. He had fallen 80m when his rap anchor pulled – luckily his partner had tied in the bottom ends of the ropes. He took a full rope length factor two fall – can you imagine that! He was trapped halfway up Mponjwane on a tiny ledge with water pouring onto him. The only gear we could find while stabilizing him was 1m below the ledge we were perched upon! The rescue took three cold and wet days. It was the coldest I have ever been in the mountains (and it was January!). It felt colder than a winter season I spent in South America bashing my way up 6 000m peaks.

Opening new routes is obviously important to you. Why?
I enjoy the process. It holds my attention from the first exploratory rap, placing the bolts correctly and then that moment of perfection – nailing the redpoint. I get a lot of satisfaction from other climbers having a good experience on my routes and am very picky about what I choose to bolt. The line has to pass my stringent quality control standards. I keep a log and have opened 112 so far with 53 of them being 27 or harder.

Roger on Nothing Heals Like Cold Steel (27) (First Ascent)

And your favourites?
Phew … Phantom of the Opera 28+, Barricade 32, Paragon 30, The Shouting Stage 29, The Activist 30, Cyberpunk 25, Agnes the Skinhead 26, Dance Macabre 26, The Gospel Express 18, Kiss the Guns 27, Cosmic Cowboy 28 ….… it’s a long list

OK so you’ve opened a lot of quality sport routes, do you trad climb too?
Not much but no trip to Cape Town is complete without a day on Table Mountain. I also get to Monteseel a couple of times a year. I stay away from big country routes though as a dodgy back makes long hikes with a backpack potentially problematic.

You disappeared from the scene for 5 years – what was that all about?
I was sitting at work one day when I noticed that I could barely lift my arms. I got weaker and weaker as the day progressed and was rushed to hospital. I was started on some toxic drugs to treat a rare condition called Myasthenia Gravis. Complications from the drugs (some of which were powerful chemotherapy agents) put me back in hospital a few months later so like a good doctor I chucked all the medicines into the bin and told the specialists to get stuffed. I didn’t get any worse so then the diagnosis was in question. But I could not exercise at all for about 4 years and shuffled around like an 80 year old. The clever doctors finally called it Chronic Fatigue Syndrome. It was possibly related to a variant of chronic tick bite fever. I eventually got better…

What are you doing with your days right now? You graduated right ?
I am an Anaesthesiologist (Anaesthetic Specialist). I work in private practice administering anaesthesia for any type of operation you can think of – from cardiac surgery to surgery on premature babies. I also spend a great deal of time in ICU looking after critically ill patients. This is a real challenge and source of much of my stress (ask any of my climbing buddies as my cellphone always rings a few times at the crag). I also spend a morning a week teaching anaesthesia at one of the big state hospitals in Pietermaritzburg.

What about life other than climbing?
I have an awesome wife, Andrea, and two very cool sons, so I try to give them all the attention they deserve. It is a constant challenge as my job keeps me very busy with long hours. I am on call (in some form) 25 out of 40 days! I need time for them and time for me when not at work. We do a lot of camping as a family and go climbing about once a month. We do all the usual family things – beach, swimming, movies and Spur meals. A surprise new passion is watching their cricket matches and the three boys sitting on the sofa glued to Top Gear. The kids know all the cars and Max does a great Clarkson impersonation.

I have done a fair bit of mountain biking with my favourite rides being on the “Thin Air Challenge” in the highlands of Lesotho which I have ridden on five occasions. You really are out there – sometimes 50km from your vehicle. The Sani 2C is a fantastic race and anyone who rides must get their bike to Moab in the USA to ride the Slick Rock and Porcupine Rim Trails.

I dabble with the piano and have an interest in architecture. I have been lucky enough to have designed and drawn the plans for six houses that have subsequently been built (usually with other people’s money). I also chair a small investment group of doctors where we find and renovate old buildings (in keeping with their historical heritage) to be used as office space. Pietermaritzburg has some beautiful red-brick colonial-style buildings.

I am also about half done with a new KZN guidebook. It will be beautiful if I say so myself – full colour throughout with a very modern layout. Oh, I am talking about climbing again…in that case I should also mention my addiction to climb.co.za. – but I am getting help with that and am making good progress … but as they say “once an addict always an addict”!

Click here to check out Rogers KZN Guidebook

I was chuffed to meet up with him in Boven in November. We found 5 minutes to have a chat:

Howzit Micky, what brings you to Boven?
I’ve been to Boven a few times in the past few years but never had a chance to climb as we were shooting the Rock Rally. I decided this year I had to climb here.

You seem to be spending a lot of time climbing and taking pics all over the place, how come you have so much time on your hands? Are you shirking a job?
My paid work is all free lance work so I can pretty much pick and choose jobs as they come. This year I have been spending much more time out climbing and shooting, its something I decided to do at the beginning of the year. I’ll probably have to work a bit more next year but I’m looking at moving more into photography as a career, we’ll see what happens.

So tell us about your main job?
I think you are about to go to Nigeria, what on earth for?
I am a qualified sound engineer and do location sound, final mix and sound design. I used to work in a studio but have been mainly doing location sound lately as this seems to bring in more regular work. For the past year I have mainly been working for an NGO called Vital Voices from the states. They do a variety of things all to do with women’s rights and empowerment. Working for Vital Voices also includes tons of travel hence the trip to Nigeria.

How have you found Boven so far?
Is it all we crack it up to be! I guess the weather has been sucking somewhat which doesn’t help.
Yeah apparently not the best time of year to be here but, the climbing is awesome, very different to CT. Its taken me a few days to get used to the technical climbing and Boven flatties but once you get the feel its rad. All the lines are really aesthetic which makes the climbing and photography really inspiring. I’m hoping to come back next year and spend more time here and project some stuff.

So, how many years have you been climbing and your best/hardest climbs to date?
Five or so years I’m not sure, I have been climbing seriously and training for the past 2 years about. My hardest route so far is Whoa she Poopee at Montagu though maybe its not 30, I think maybe 28.

So are you single, straight and how old?
Single and straight and 30.

How long have you been taking pics on a serious level?
2 years that’s when I bought my camera.

How come your pictures are so good? How important is good kit and also photo-shop seems key these days?
Well, have been working with a brilliant director of photography for the past 5 years in video. Georgia Court, she is extremely talented and has taught me loads. Georgia was the other half of the Rock and Road 07 filming and movie.
A good photographer will take good pictures with a bad camera and with a good camera they will be even better. Also, I find taking lots of pictures and making comparisons with other peoples pictures locally and internationally.

I often look at photo’s by people like Keith Ladzinski, Simon Carter and Michael Clarke and try to learn as much as I can from their photos. I also use Lightroom extensively, I believe that as soon as you frame and take a picture you are already in the editing process, post production is just a continuation of this process. Anything that helps enhance or portray the feel or story better is part of it.

Well we definitely like what we see on climb.co.za. It really makes a difference to see a great climbing shot while bored at work. Generally what do you think of the climbing pictures that the SA climbing media put out?
I think there could and should be a lot more high quality shots in our local mags and media. Unfortunately the scene is still pretty small in SA so think there isn’t much money out there to pay for high quality shots, but its growing so we’ll see. I’m hoping that my pictures will inspire people about our local climbing scene and get people psyched to climb harder, but yeah it would be nice to get something in return for all the effort.

From a photographers perspective, how is the SA rock and venues?
Orange rock always looks the best!
We have some of the most beautiful climbing areas in the world. I dont think I have seen many shots with rock more asthetic than Boven or Rocklands.

How do you manage to climb and take pictures; that must be a struggle sometimes? Do you find yourself wishing you were the one in front of the lens, not behind it when you are hanging off a rope taking pictures?
Hehe I prefer to climb, so I try to shoot on rest days. There is usually a bit of set up involved if you want to get into a good spot to shoot which is basically impossible if its just you and your buddy climbing. I like being behind the lens instead of in front of it, its easier for me to get people amped about our local scene by taking photo’s. It would be nice to get some shots of me climbing for my mum though

Do you prefer shooting sport or bouldering? Do you have any favourite places to shoot and why?
I have no preference really I like all climbing but taking photo’s of bouldering is definitely the easiest, much less set up and all. Sport and trad shots are maybe a little more satisfying.

Why do you prefer sport/trad climbing photos?
When looking at photo’s of people high up on awesome routes you always have to ask ‘where’s the photographer in that shot?’ There is a lot more effort put into those shots and there something inspiring about seeing people doing cool moves high up off the ground.

Do you think that the fact that you are a good climber helps? How so?
Hehe I wouldn’t say that I’m that good, average maybe. But being a climber helps, you can predict what moves are coming next and see where the cruxes are.

What’s your best photo to date, what is it about these shots you like so much?
Antonio Moreno on Barracuda rail and Ulan Batar, I just bought a reflector and was able to get some cool light effects (Pic Below) I got another awesome shot with Cody Roth on No Late Tenders the same way. Recently I really like the pic of Flex on Godzilla and of Jimbo busting on the crux of the same route.

For all of us arb photographers out there, what best way to get a better climbing photo?
Welll firstly take lots of photo’s. If you are really keen then start reading up on photography. Compare your shots to others and get off the ground, ass shots don’t work. Don’t be afraid to experiment with framing, center framing generally isn’t great. I like to see a climbers’ face and an aesthetic move as opposed to say standing on a ledge. I like shooting opening ascents or actual redpoint attempts, its slightly more challenging as you are capturing something real.

What are your plans for your photography?
I want to start building up my equipment, take more sport climbing shots and big wall stuff. Pictures of local guys and gals on super hard stuff to get people psyched to climb in SA. Mostly we see oversees stuff so it would be nice to see more killer local stuff. Also, I have one or two climbing videos in pipeline but its all top secret. I’m also going to branch out into other sports, I’ll be shooting some downhill skating this month and the opening of a skate park, so we’ll see where that leads.

Jimbo on Godzilla (32) at The God No! Wall

It’s cool that Climb.co.za only post local – do you agree?
Yes. I still don’t see why there are so few hard climbers in SA and the scene is so small. It should be huge we’ve got the rock we just need the psyche. Seeing locals on great routes will help get people psyched. I don’t think the overseas guys need any more promotion they get enough punting from overseas sources, we should be doing everything we can to promote SA climbing.

How about a SA climbing calendar, one that we won’t be embarrassed to put up our office walls?
Yeah sure why not, we need more photographers though.

I see you have been taking some pictures of Marc Efune at the God No! Wall while you’ve been up here, how was that? A mission?
Luckily its pretty easy to set up ab points in Boven. I still find abseiling scarey though, and you get all sorts of weird cramps and strains hanging in a harness for so long. It was all worth it though, a beautiful route and with an inspiring climber.

Well, thanks Micky. We will be looking out for your work. Keep it up, we really dig it!

Flex on Godzilla (32) at the The God No! Wall

The Flex! Photo: Micky Wiswedel

Its November we’re in South Africa’s sport climbing paradise, Waterval Boven, but apparently this is not the best time of year to be here. It’s raining as another highveld thunderstorm cruises through the valley. Sitting in our chalet at Tranquilitas drinking whiskey, I decide to interview one of our local climbing heroes, The Flex…

Stats:
Age: 28
Occupation: currently none, but a qualified mechanical engineer
Years climbing: 6

Firstly, how did you get the name Flex?

It all started at a garage outside Krugersdorp, there were 3 girls in a car and I flexed for them. Alas, only one of them was even mildly impressed. Generally, I have a habit of taking my shirt off and flexing in appropriate and inappropriate places…

What got you started in climbing?

I always climbed stuff as a kid and at varsity I joined the Wits mountain club, I never looked back.

You haven’t been climbing long relatively speaking, how did you get good so fast?

Climb a lot and climb with people better than you.

What are your hardest routes or noticeable climbing achievements?

My hardest route is Up for Grabs 31 in Oudtshoorn. It was cool as I felt like I crushed it. Lately, I’ve been involved in the development of Joburg’s newest power endurance crag, Wigwam. I opened Tomahawk 7c+ (29) and bolted Last of the Mohicans which Steve Bretherick opened at 8a (30). I have just managed to repeat it. I also just returned from Kalymnos where on one day I managed to onsight a route at every grade from 6b+(22) to 7c(28)

Left: Creepers Direct 7a+ Plateau Boulders, Rocklands Photo: Micky Wiswedel

Looking at your 8a scorecard you don’t seem to be short on onsights, is onsight climbing what you strive for?

I will always first try onsight a route. Red pointing and onsighting each have their merits and you should be able to do both, it a makes you a more well rounded climber overall.

Which has been your best onsight?

Avance Cangrejo 7c Spain

So where have you climbed outside of SA?

France, Spain and Greece. I love traveling to new areas particularly as there is so much more scope to onsight routes. At your local crags you tend to use up all potential onsights projecting routes. It’s also great meeting and climbing with people from all over the world. I think the climbing community worldwide is very relaxed and it’s easy to make new friends.

How was your recent trip to Kalymnos?

Sun, sea and climbing – what more can you ask for?

What is your favourite climbing area?

Waterval Boven. To me the climbing here is still the most varied, aesthetic and technical, I’ve experienced, and there are still great new routes being bolted all the time. There is still a lot of potential here…

Right: Hot Toddy Bension (28), Berlin Wall, Montagu Photo by Dirk Smith

Do you train, how?

Back home I’ll train twice a week on a bouldering wall and try to climb every weekend if possible.

Can you do a 1 arm pull up?

Almost.

What is the Flex’s tip to climb two grades harder?

I always climb at least 2 grades harder with my top off – it’s the power of The Flex.

Do you have any inspiration local or overseas?

There are so many inspirational overseas climbers it’s hard to pin-point one. Locally, I have gained a lot from climbing with Andrew Pedley. He has exceptional footwork and technique and opens some of the most inspirational routes in the country. He is also a notorious sand bagger but, in the long run this makes you a better climber. If you climb a Pedley route, you know you’ve earned that grade.

Any scary or funny climbing experiences?

Every day climbing with my buddies is funny. I once fell of the top move of Monster 29 with my leg wrapped around the rope and smashed into the rock upside down – that was pretty scary…

Has your passion for climbing affected you work ethic in any way?

*laughs* I’m happily unemployed at the moment.

Marc Efune on Godzilla (31) at Waterval Boven Photo: Micky Wiswedel

According to 8a you are ranked no.4 but you have never been involved in any local climbing competitions, why is that?

I’m not motivated by competing against others. I compete against myself when I climb.

Are you sponsored?

No

You’ve pretty much always been a sport climber but this year spent quite a bit of time bouldering, what caused the shift?

I spent a year working in Cape Town where there is a really great bouldering scene and of course there is Rocklands. The problems there are awesome. I’m still primarily a sport climber though.

Rumour has it you were involved in some weird genetic experiments as a baby where your finger bones were replaced with adamantium, the strongest metal in the world, is this true?

No comment … weighing 57Kg helps on small holds though.

Can you crimp someone’s face off?

Probably.

Any upcoming trips or projects?

I’ll be trying to repeat some more Pedley Classics, recently I have had a few runs on Godzilla 31 and it feels close. I’m also off to Thailand for a month in January.

(Ed’s note: Marc Redpointed Godzilla on the 30th of November ’08)

Marc Efune on Godzilla (31) at Waterval Boven Photo: Micky Wiswedel

Any final comments?

There is still a lot of potential in SA for new routes, and there are some super hard projects that everyone knows about that need to be opened like The Mazawati project in Montagu. There is no reason one of us shouldn’t be opening those routes.

Marc Efune on Godzilla (31) at Waterval Boven Photo: Micky Wiswedel

Clinton on Mediocrity in the Hex Mountains Photo by Justin Lawson

I spoke to Clinton Martinengo the day before he left for Yosemite whilst the Spring storm was hammering the Western Cape.

Justin:  You’re heading off to the US tomorrow, how long are you going to be there?

Clinton:  I’m going to be there for 2 months, getting back on the 1st of November.

Justin:  Around where will you be travelling?

Clinton:  First I’m going to Yosemite, for the whole of September and then there is an American Alpine Association international rock climbing meet in Denver which starts on the 4th of October and lasts for 2 weeks.  There will be people from other mountain clubs all over the world attending the meet.

After that, I’m going to see what happens and perhaps hang around there or head back to Yosemite.

Justin:  Is it just you – are going over by yourself?

Clinton:  I’m going over by myself, but Robert Breyer, Snort (Charles Edelstein) are also going to join me for a while and then Gosia Lipinski and Julia Wakeling will be coming over later on.

Justin:  So what is on your tick list while you’re in Yosemite?

Clinton:  I definitely want to do Separate Reality, Midnight Lightning (boulder problem) and Phoenix crack which is a single pitch route.  Phoenix crack was the first 5.13a in the world.

I also want to get on Astroman and Rostrum, but I’m not going over with any high expectations. I just want enjoy myself. It’s the first time I’m going there, so I’ll jump onto as many classics as I can.

Clinton redpointing Copelia (29) on the Rock and Road Trip. Photo by Rock and Road

Justin:  Have you been doing lots of training, like climbing at Paarl?

Clinton:  At Paarl… besides my new route that I opened recently, not really.  The Rock and Road trip I saw as good training and my work keeps me fit too.

Justin:  What has been your greatest achievement this year?

Clinton:  My route at Paarl (Shaka / 8b+) & winning the 2008 Petzl Rock and Road Trip.  I was really quite psyched to actually win it because Ben was really on good form and it was the first time I’ve even beat him at a climbing competition. Also getting to the top of Mount Kenya which was my first alpine route.  I spent a month in Kenya with Julia Wakeling in January and we did the Nelion route.   We slept the night on top and then the next day we crossed the gates reversed back the same way we went up.

Clinton Martenengo Shaka 8b+ at Paarl Rock. Photo By Robert Breye

Clinton Martenengo Shaka 8b+ at Paarl Rock.

Photo By Robert Breyer

Justin:  how long have you been climbing for?

Clinton:  Since June 1992, so 16 years.

Justin:  How did you start climbing?

Clinton:  I started with Maarten Turkstra, he used to talk about it at School and one day I asked if I could join him.  I went round to his place the same day and he gave me a crash course on how to belay in his tree.  After that we went climbing on some cliff, it was a multi pitch.

Justin:  Who are your sponsors?

Clinton:  Bluewater, Evolv, Trango and First Ascent.

Justin:  What is your favourite climbing area?

Clinton:  Milner and I’ve really been enjoying Boven of late.

Justin:  What is your favourite type of climbing?  And which one are you best at?

Clinton:  Really hard to say, at the moment I’m into mixed routes, big wall stuff like Oceans of Fear.  I won’t say that it is my strongest style of climbing.  It’s nice to get up something and feeling the achievement.

Justin:  What are your thoughts on the route Newborn at Yellowood?

Clinton:  I think it’s one of the best routes I’ve climbed.  Top quality route, I don’t why it wasn’t climbed 5 years ago.

Justin:  Did you manage to free all the pitches?

Clinton:  Yes

Clinton Martinengo on the fourth pitch (5.12b) of Newborn. Photo by Jeremy Samson

Justin:  Do you cross train for climbing?

Clinton:  Not really, my work is quite physical and keeps me in shape.  I do sometimes run/walk in the mountains, but that’s more for the fun of it.

Justin:  You’re probably the no.1 climber in SA right now… where do you see SA climbing heading?

Clinton:  I definitely think it is going places, the bouldering scene is going well right now and the same for sport climbing, people like Andrew Pedely are pushing the level.  The Trad scene is rather dormant and no one is pushing the boundaries on it at the moment.

Justin:  Who has influenced you most / your hero so to speak

Clinton:  There has been a broad spectrum of people – one of the greatest influences for me was Tini Versveld, it was through him that I started really started Trad climbing and venturing up the hills – I think He is quite visionary in spying lines and a great climber.

Justin:  Where else besides SA have you climbed?

Clinton:  I have been to Jordan with Jeremy (Samson).  I went to Kenya earlier this year.  I’ve traveled around Europe, went to Spain, in France I went to Font – I didn’t do any sport climbing in France though and I have spent a good amount of time in Sheffield climbing in the Peak District – all great experiences.

Justin:  After your States trip, what plans do you have?

Clinton:  I have a project at Wolfberg, it’s a big arch with crack through the middle.  I want to go back to Blouberg to free one pitch on… O jeez a tree landed on my car!  Well not a tree but a branch.

Justin:  Shall I call you back?

Clinton:  No its fine…  It’s that route I opened with Snort at Blouberg ‘Dog of Thunder’ that I fell off (I fell off at the last move) I would like to free the whole thing in a day.  We did it last in two days.

Justin:  What comes 2nd to climbing for you?

Clinton:  Walking in the mountains

Justin:  Your 8a.nu says you’re into horse riding?

Clinton:  The day I filled that in I went for my first horse ride, never been since!

Justin:  What are your favorite climbing shoes?

Clinton:  Evolv Pontas

Clinton Martinengo on Streetfighter (34) at Oudtshoorn. Photo by Margherita Introna

Justin:  What is the hardest route that you have climbed?

Clinton:  On Sport, the hardest grade would be Streetfighter (8b/34) but the hardest route for me personally is Fear Factor at the Hole which is grade SA 33

Justin:  What is the hardest you have bouldered?

Clinton:  Ard ay 8a+

Justin:  What is the hardest trad route you’ve climbed?

Clinton:  That would be ‘Oceans of Fear’ (Clinton freed the route at grade 28 (sandbag))

Justin:  What is your preferred drink of choice?

Clinton:  whiskey – Jonnie Walker Black

Justin:  What is your favourite food?

Clinton:  lasagna

Justin:  What do you for a living?

Clinton:   I’m a Plumber

Justin:  Are you a member of the MCSA?

Clinton:  Yes definitely.

Justin: Are you a gear junkie?

Clinton:   No, no no I am not a gear junkie

Clinton Martinengo flashing Snapdragon 7c+/29 at Waterval Boven. Photo by Dirk Smith

Justin:  Are you presently available, do you have a girlfriend?

Clinton:  No I am available.  (There is much laughter on both sides of the phone and a female voice is heard saying “oh my word” in the background!)

Justin:  Have an awesome time in the States, take lots of photos and let us know how you’re going?

Clinton:  Cool thanks.

Clinton phones back: I won’t be available for too long because I’m going to find a girl to marry and live in Yosemite!!

Tid bit from SACIN 2001:

Clinton wraps it up in Rocklands Posted 28/11/2001

While on a trip to Rocklands in the Cederberg Clinton wrapped up several of the bolted routes there. On the Saturday he onsighted ‘Blockout’ 26, ‘Alto Rouge’ 27 and ‘Billy the Kid’ a 22 slab in hiking boots after being bet a six-pack! He also repeated ‘Coppertone’ 28 and ‘Factor 15′ 29 both on his second try. On the Sunday he got ‘Skinless Arete’ 31 also on his second try, ONSIGHTED ‘Soviet Dancer’ 26 and flashed ‘Magic Mushrooms’ 28.

Check out Clintons Blog

Related article:  Astroman

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